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Review Article | DOI: https://doi.org/10.31579/2688-7517/182
University of Life Sciences "King Mihai I" from Timisoara, 300645, Calea Aradului 119, Timis, Romania.
*Corresponding Author: Monica Butnariu, University of Life Sciences "King Mihai I" from Timisoara, 300645, Calea Aradului 119, Timis, Romania.
Citation: Mihai-Darius Cernescu, Monica Butnariu, (2024), Cosmetic Products; some Opinions, J. Pharmaceutics and Pharmacology Research, 7(6); DOI:10.31579/2688-7517/182
Copyright: © 2024, Monica Butnariu. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Received: 16 March 2024 | Accepted: 29 March 2024 | Published: 12 April 2024
Keywords: cosmetic product; dermo cosmetics; skin care; active substances
Cosmetic product is any substance or preparation designed to come into contact with external parts of the human body, with the teeth, with the mucous membranes or with the oral cavity, with the aim of cleaning, perfuming, improving the appearance, or protecting and to maintain human skin in good condition. Cosmetics play an essential role in the daily skin care routine, and regular cosmetics and dermatocosmetics have similarities but also significant differences in this regard. Dermatocosmetics represent a range specially designed to treat specific skin and scalp problems such as dry or wrinkled skin, sensitivity, irritations, acne, dermatitis, cuperosis.
Normal cosmetics are used for basic skin care, while dermatocosmetics are formulated with active ingredients that can treat various problems or conditions. For example, products for the care of dry skin contain substances with a nutritional effect, with the role of restoring lipids but also compensating for the lack of water in the skin that faces irritation, especially in the cold season. They have an immediate but also long-term moisturizing effect on the skin. Acne treatment products may contain ingredients such as zinc or panthenol, known for their properties to regulate sebum secretion and speed up tissue healing, while certain active substances may have a soothing effect and reduce the discomfort of a sensitive or intolerant scalp, who often experience tingling, redness or eczema [1].
Consulting a dermatologist or esthetician is always a good idea if you are in doubt about the best choices for you. They can examine and assess the condition of your skin and give you personalized advice [2].
The recent history of research in pharmacy and cosmetology has shown that more and more active substances, considered to be simple cosmetic ingredients, that improve the appearance of the skin thanks to a pharmacological effect, at the subcellular level, are beginning to appear on the niche market. The simplest example in this sense is even retinol, considered to be a cosmetic ingredient, found on many anti-aging cosmetic products. However, retinol (and in general all retinoids, i.e., members of the vitamin A family) has specific receptors on the cells of the epidermis (on keratinocytes and sebocytes) and on those of the dermis (on fibrocytes) [3].
Interaction with them determines a specific biological effect. Little by little, modern research has added other cosmetic-active substances, related to which a specific mechanism of action, intracellular, can be highlighted. For example, beta-glucan stimulates the synthesis of collagen within the skin (dermis) after causing a certain cell to release some local chemicals (interleukins). Going beyond reasoning, today it is possible to obtain by synthesis (in the laboratory) some substances (peptide-type molecules) that have well-targeted, targeted pathways of action, which even define and name them. Current research is based on the identification of pharmaceutical-active cosmetic substances as a result of the growing demands of the consumer public. The users of cosmetic products want effective, functional products that tend - as much as possible - towards the results of aesthetic medicine [4].
Research focuses either on the innovation of active molecules or seeks to capitalize and valorize such molecules, through appropriate pharmaceutical forms (lotions, emulsions, gels).
What are normal cosmetics?
Normal cosmetics, also known as skin care products, include a wide range of products such as creams, lotions, masks, make-up or hair care products. They are designed to be applied to the surface of the skin and have various purposes, from hydration and protection to improving the overall appearance of the skin. Most cosmetics of this kind contain ingredients that help to moisturize, protect the skin from environmental factors, clean or exfoliate. Emollients in day creams help maintain optimal hydration levels, while pigments and ingredients in make-up products help hide imperfections and even out the complexion [5].
Regular use of such products can have positive effects such as improving skin texture and tone, reducing wrinkles and fine lines, or the appearance of enlarged pores. It is important that they are used according to the type of skin and that they are removed correctly, because their incorrect or inappropriate use can lead to negative effects. For example, products that are too oily or emollient can lead to clogged pores and acne breakouts in oily skin. Normal cosmetics are more affordable and available in a wide range of formulas, colors and textures, designed to meet the needs of a wide market. Although normal cosmetics can provide immediate visual results, many of them contain ingredients that can be harmful to the skin in the long term. They can cause irritation, dryness, allergic reactions and can even accelerate the aging process of the skin. Normal cosmetics often provide immediate but temporary results. For example, a foundation or face concealer can mask imperfections but won't treat long-term skin problems [6].
These pros and cons can vary by brand and specific product, so it's always recommended to read labels and inform yourself before using certain cosmetics.
What are dermatocosmetics?
Dermatocosmetics combine cosmetic and dermatological properties to improve skin appearance and treat various skin problems. They are formulated with active ingredients that can penetrate the upper layers of the skin, thus providing not only aesthetic but also therapeutic benefits. These products, created after extensive research, are dermatologically tested to give them a high level of safety and effectiveness in treating various conditions [7].
Dermatocosmetics are designed to combine cosmetic benefits with therapeutic ones, with the aim of having a positive impact on the skin. They are formulated to treat various problems such as dermatocosmetics for dehydrated skin, acne, eczema, psoriasis, premature aging of the skin, pigmentation. Therefore, they offer more effective and specialized solutions for skin care and treatment compared to normal cosmetic products. Another advantage of dermatocosmetics is that they are suitable for sensitive skin, having hypoallergenic formulas, an essential characteristic for people with such a skin because it reduces the risk of irritation and allergic reactions. Dermatocosmetics undergo rigorous clinical testing to ensure their effectiveness and safety, testing ensures that the products are compatible with the skin and deliver the desired results [8].
A disadvantage is that they can be more expensive than regular cosmetics due to the advanced ingredients and technologies used in their formulation. In addition, some dermatocosmetics may require a prescription from the dermatologist. This aspect, however, ensures that the products are used appropriately and in accordance with individual needs [9].
Last but not least, although less frequently, some people may have allergic reactions or sensitivity to certain ingredients in dermatocosmetics.
Dermatocosmetics, although they can be more expensive, are formulated to treat specific problems and are often recommended by dermatologists. On the other hand, normal cosmetics can offer a wide range of products at affordable prices. Thus, along with the active substance (from which we expect a beneficial effect), we also bring a series of other substances to the skin; called auxiliaries. Regarding auxiliary substances; there are no reasons to worry. There is legislation that imposes a maximum limit on them. Rather, however, we should ask ourselves another question: Is the active substance present in the cosmetic product in sufficient quantity for a beneficial effect? Normal cosmetics often contain parabens, sulfates, and other chemicals that can cause irritation, dryness, and other skin problems. On the other hand, dermatocosmetics are formulated with milder, safer, and more natural ingredients that are more skin-friendly and less likely to cause side effects. Dermatocosmetics are often formulated to treat specific skin problems, such as acne, eczema or redness, so they can have more effective results. Active ingredients such as niacinamide, or retinol or hyaluronic acid in anti-wrinkle products can help treat and improve these long-term conditions, unlike regular cosmetics, which are more effective in providing immediate results. Over time, normal cosmetics can cause toxins to build up in the skin, which can lead to premature aging, dryness and other problems, while dermatocosmetics are formulated to be gentler and healthier for the skin in the long term. Although dermatocosmetics may cost more initially, they can actually be more economical over time because they can reduce the need for expensive follow-up treatments. Thus, such an investment can be more advantageous.
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